Porch Deck and Patio

Porch, Deck + Patio

Outdoor Projects

DIY Patio Table with Cooler

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BLACK+DECKER B+D Contributor 186 Projects

This rustic table features built-in coolers that make entertaining your friends easy. Start with a couple of planter boxes of your choice, and then customize the table to fit the boxes. The table’s finished size is about 3' wide, 6' long and 36" tall. Refer to our DIY Outdoor Bench project for instructions on building a coordinating bench.

Below are the TOOLS + MATERIALS you will need to Build a DIY Patio Table w/ Built-in Beer/Wine Coolers:

Things You Will Need

How to Build a DIY Patio Table with Built-In Beer/Wine Coolers

  1. Cut the Plywood and Boards

    Use the BLACK+DECKER BDCCS20B 20V MAX* 5 1/2 in. Circular Saw to cut the following pieces:

    • (1) piece of 3/4" CDX plywood, 33 x 69" for the cooler top
    • (4) pieces of 3/4" CDX plywood, 12 x 12" for the leg supports
    • (3) 2 x 6 boards, 69" long for the tabletop spacers
    • (3) 2 x 6 boards, 33" long for the tabletop spacers
    • (7) 1 x 6 boards, 72" long for the decking planks
    • (2) 1 x 4 boards, 33" long for the apron short sides
    • (2) 1 x 4 boards, 70 1/2" long for the apron long sides
    • (8) 2 x 4 boards, 32" long for the legs

  2. Cut Holes for the Planter Boxes

    Place your planter boxes upside down, centered where you want them on the plywood. Leave at least 7" of space between the boxes at the center of the table. Trace around the boxes with a pencil. Draw another line inside the perimeter of each outline, so that the lip on the planter box becomes the shelf to hold the planter box cooler.

    Drill a hole using a 1/2" bit and the BLACK+DECKER 20V MAX* Lithium 2-Speed Drill/Driver then use the BLACK+DECKER 4.5 Amp Jigsaw to cut out the holes.

  3. Add the Spacers Then Sand and Apply Finish

    Apply weather-resistant wood glue to the three 33" long 2 x 6 spacers. Fit them flush along the ends of the plywood and one centered between the cooler box cutouts. Screw the spacers to the plywood with 2" screws. Sand the decking planks smooth.

    Round and blunt all the corners and edges using the BLACK+DECKER MOUSE® Detail Sander and 100-grit sandpaper. Apply your choice of stain and exterior finish to the sides and bottoms of the planks. Add finish to the bottoms of the table legs to seal them.

    TIP: It's difficult to apply the finish on all surfaces of the planks after assembly. Add the stain and finish to the edges for now. You will route the top edges and sand the top faces later.

  4. Mark and Cut the Lids

    Arrange the seven 1 x 6 planks side-by-side on a flat surface so all of their ends are flush. Place the tabletop on top of the planks so it is centered. Trace the cooler openings onto the planks. Remove the tabletop and draw an outline 3/4" outside of the traced openings (these are the outlines of the cooler lids).

    Use the circular saw to out cut each lid section from the planks. Clamp the 1 x 6 lid sections together side-by-side with water-resistant glue, and allow the glue to dry for at least one hour.

  5. Cut the Lid Finger Holes

    Remove the clamps and use the 4.5 Amp Jigsaw to cut small semicircles on one side of both lids for the finger holes. Use the BLACK+DECKER 20V MAX* 5 1/2 in. Circular Saw to cut four 1 1/2 x 2" blocks from scrap 2 x 6. Screw them to the corners on the bottoms of the lids with 2" screws.

    These are the feet for the lids, to make them fit flush with the top of the decking planks.

  6. Install the Decking Planks

    Assemble the 1 x 6 planks on top of the tabletop spacers in the same arrangement you used before, and add the removable lids. Screw the planks to the spacers with 1 1/2" screws. Do not screw on the lids.

  7. Add the Apron

    Apply weather-resistant glue to the two 33" long 1 x 4 apron boards. Screw them on to cover the spacers and plywood on the ends of the tabletop, using 1 1/2" screws. Install the 70 1/2" long apron pieces on the sides of the tabletop to complete the apron.

    TIP: Use the BLACK+DECKER 10 Amp Variable Speed Plunge Router with a 1/4" roundover bit to round over the edges of the tabletop planks and bottom edges of the apron.

  8. Build the Legs

    Apply glue to one side of four of the 32" long 2 x 4 leg pieces. Join each of these pieces face-to-face with one of the four remaining leg pieces and screw them together to create four 3 x 3 1/2" legs. Apply glue to the top end of each leg. Center one piece of 12 x 12" plywood on top of each leg. Screw the plywood to the legs with 2" screws to create a "T" shape.

  9. Sand Everything Smooth

    Sand the tabletop and lids smooth using the BLACK+DECKER 3 in. x 21 in. Dragster™ Belt Sander and a 100-grit sanding belt. Repeat sanding everything, including the legs, using the BLACK+DECKER MOUSE® Detail Sander and 100-grit sandpaper.

  10. Screw the Legs to the Top

    Apply glue to the plywood supports on top of the legs. Turn the tabletop upside down. Position one leg in each corner. Screw the supports to the bottom of tabletop plywood with 1 1/2" screws. Turn the table upright.

  11. Finish the Table

    Apply your choice of stain and one or more coats of exterior finish, following the manufacturers' directions for application techniques and drying times.

    TIP: To set up your table, lower the cooler bins into the openings and add ice. The lip on the cooler supports the bins. Position the lids over the openings, and allow them to settle into the recessed openings. If you have oddly shaped coolers, some adjustment of the lid feet may be necessary so that they clear the lip on the cooler.

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