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DIY Chaise Lounge Chair

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BLACK+DECKER B+D Contributor 186 Projects

This outdoor chaise makes it possible to recline in comfort in your own backyard. Built with sturdy, all-weather cedar, this roomy piece accommodates two people and includes a convenient tilt feature.

Below are the TOOLS + MATERIALS you will need to build a DIY Outdoor Chaise Lounge:

Things You Will Need

DIY Outdoor Chaise Lounge

  1. Cut the Cedar Stock

    Cut the following pieces of cedar stock using the BLACK+DECKER 20V MAX* 5 1/2 in. Circular Saw:

    • (2) 2 x 6 boards, 90" long for the sides of the frame
    • (2) 2 x 6 boards, 55" long for the front and back of the frame
    • (3) 2 x 6 boards, 49" long for the center support and leg brace
    • (2) 2 x 6 boards, 11" long for the front legs
    • (2) 2 x 6 boards, 10 1/2" long for the back legs
    • (2) 2 x 4 boards, 79" long for the stringers
    • (1) 2 x 4 boards, 7 1/2" long for the center leg
    • (1) 1 x 6 board, 55" long for the hinge brace 
    • (25) 1 x 4 boards, 55" long for the slats
    • (3) 1 x 4 boards, 48" long for the back supports
    • (2) 1 x 4 boards, 22"long the back tilt supports 
    • (1) 1 1/4" diameter dowel, 54 1/2" long for the tilting brace

  2. Build the Frame

    Apply weather-resistant wood glue to the ends of the 55" long 2 x 6 boards. Place them between the two 90" 2 x 6 boards, flush at both ends. Drill pilot holes with an 1/8" bit using the BLACK+DECKER 20V MAX* Lithium 2-Speed Drill/Driver. Use 3" screws to join the pieces to create a rectangular frame.

    TIP: Depending on what type of screw you're using, pilot holes should be just slightly smaller than the screw. The idea is to allow the hole to be big enough for the screw to pass through without splitting the wood, but at the same time, small enough so that the threads grip firmly.

  3. Install the Legs

    Position the two 11" long legs at the inside, front corners of the frame, 2" below the top of the frame. Screw the legs to the frame with 2 1/2 " screws. Screw the two 10 1/2" legs to the back corners the same way. The broad sides of the legs should be facing the sides of the frame.

  4. Notch the Stringers

    Cut a series of notches in the two 2 x 4 stringers with the BLACK+DECKER 20V MAX* Cordless Lithium Jigsaw. Starting from one end of each stringer, cut at least 8 notches 1 1/4" deep and 1 1/2" wide, with 1" between each notch. The notches serve to position the tilting back support up or down.

  5. Install the Stringers

    Apply glue to one side of the stringers. Fit them between the legs on the long sides of the frame, flush with the tops of the legs. Screw them to the inside of the frame with 2 1/2" screws. The notches should oppose each other on the left and right.

  6. Add Braces

    Measure between the stringers and between the legs (both measurements should be about 52") at both ends of the frame. Cut a 2 x 4 to each measured dimension. Screw the first 2 x 4 centered, across the frame with 2 1/2" screws, to serve as a center support rail.

    Screw the other two 2 x 4s centered vertically between the legs at each end of the chaise to add stability to the legs. Screw the 7 1/2" long center leg to the bottom of the center brace.

  7. Smooth and Sand Everything

    Insert a 1/4" roundover bit into the BLACK+DECKER 10 Amp Variable Speed Plunge Router. Run the router around the perimeter of the frame and, optionally, around the slats as desired for better aesthetics or a more comfortable feel.

    Sand everything smooth using the BLACK+DECKER MOUSE® Detail Sander and 100-grit sandpaper. Blunt and round all the corners and edges that you were not able to reach with the router.

  8. Add the Slats and Apply the Finish

    Screw the 1 x 4 slats to the tops of the stringers with 1 ½” screws, starting at one end, with 3/4" spacing between them, until you've covered 48" of the stringers. Adjust the spacing between slats as needed to make it work out evenly.

    Add stain and exterior finish to the slats before screwing them on. (It's difficult to get the finish in between the slats after assembly.)

  9. Build the Tilting Back

    The tilting portion of the recliner requires a 1 x 6 centered between the 1 x 4 slats to provide stability and a good anchor point for the hinges. Build the tilting back separately by screwing the three 48" long 1 x 4 back supports to the underside of the 1 x 4 slats.

    Two supports should be recessed 2" from the ends of the slats, with one support centered. Use 1 1/4" screws to screw the slats to the supports. To ensure that the back support fits accurately, measure the opening in the frame, and trim any slats or supports as needed.

  10. Make It Tilt

    Screw the tilting brace dowel to the ends of the two 22" back tilt supports. At this point, the back supports are just 1 x 4s, 22" long. Drill pilot holes through the dowel with a 1/8 bit. Screw the dowel perpendicular to the supports, 1 1/2" from the bottom, with equal spacing from the ends, and in the middle.

    Screw a pipe clamp to each dowel with 3/4" screws to strengthen the connections.

  11. Attach the Hinges

    Fit the tilting back into the chaise frame. Tilt it upward, and slip the 22" supports with dowel underneath. Fit the dowel to into a corresponding pair of notches on the stringers. Tilt the support pieces up to make contact with the 1 x 6 on the tilting back. Screw two 3 x 3 1/2" leaf hinges to the supports,and the 1 x 6, centered on the tilting support, using 3/4" screws.

    Screw two more hinges to the adjoining slats, one on the left, and one on the right of the supports. Tilt the back up and down to test the movement, allowing the dowel to move to different notches.

    TIP: To better understand how and where the hinges fit, fold the tilting back down and lay the tilting back in the frame as if it were in the flat position. The dowel should fit at the top between the slat and the frame. Take note of the locations where the tilting back makes contact with the frame, tilt the tilting back up and screw on the hinges. Some minor adjustments and trimming of the slats or supports may be necessary.

  12. Finish the Chaise

    Apply stain and two coats of exterior polyurethane to all bare wood, following the manufacturers' directions for application techniques and drying times.

  13. Add the Wheels

    Drill a 1/2" hole through each back leg, 2 1/2" up from the bottom and centered side-to-side. Bolt the wheels to the back legs with 2 1/2" bolts with washers on both sides.

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    Relax + enjoy your new outdoor chaise lounge!

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