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Family DIY

DIY Lemonade Stand with Retro Look

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DIY Lemonade Stand with Retro Look
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BLACK+DECKER B+D Contributor 193 Projects

Quench your thirst this summer with a fun and colorful lemonade stand. This easy-to-build project features a lightweight frame of 2 x 2 lumber, a large countertop for all your supplies and a chalkboard sign for announcing what’s on the menu. A light, two-toned paint job is sure to bring in plenty of thirsty customers.

Below are the TOOLS + MATERIALS you'll need to build a DIY Lemonade Stand:

Things Youll Need

  1. Cut the Pieces

    Cut the following pieces with the BLACK+DECKER 20V MAX* 5-1/2 in. Circular Saw:

    From the 2 x 2 pine stock:

    • (4) pieces, 46" long for the front and back rails of the frame (A)
    • (2) pieces, 43" long for the front and top mid-supports (B)
    • (4) pieces, 26-1/2" long for the frame corner posts (C)
    • (6) pieces, 20" long for the side rails of the frame (D)
    • (2) pieces, 72" long for the sign supports (E)

    From the 1 x 4 pine stock:

    • (24) pieces, 29-1/2" long for the fascia boards (G)

  2. Build the Front and Back of the Frame

    Apply wood glue to an end of one of the 2 x 2 corner posts and place it perpendicular to one of the 46"-long 2 x 2 rails.

    The post end should be butted against the face of the rail and flush with its end. If desired, secure the pieces to a work surface with clamps. Fasten the two pieces together with the BLACK+DECKER SMARTECH™ 20V MAX* Lithium Drill/Driver and a 2-1/2" screw.

    Repeat this process three more times to create four L-shaped pieces. Join two of the L-shaped pieces to form a rectangle, using glue and 2-1/2" screws. Repeat to create a second rectangle. Apply glue to both ends of one of the 2 x 2 mid-supports, and install it in the center of one of the rectangles with 2-1/2" screws; this will be the front of the frame. 

    TIP: Position the screws off-center to prevent overlap with screws you will use later to secure other parts of the frame.

  3. Add the Side Supports

    Apply glue to an end of one of the 2 x 2 side rails.

    Place the side rail perpendicular to one corner of the front frame rectangle, and secure it with a 2-1/2" screw. Install another side rail at the adjacent corner of the frame, then add a third side rail centered between the first two. Repeat this process at the other end of the frame front.

    Lay the frame front facedown so the side rails are pointing up. Apply glue to the exposed ends of all six side rails, place the rear frame rectangle on top of the side rails and secure it with a 2-1/2" screw into each side rail. Set the frame upright.

  4. Install the Top Mid Support

    Apply glue to both ends of the remaining mid-support.

    Place it in the center of the top of the frame and secure it with a 2-1/2" screw at each end.

  5. Add the Countertop

    Apply glue to the top faces of the front, rear and side rails and the mid-support. Place the 2 x 4' piece of plywood (F) on top of the frame so its back edge is flush with the rear of the frame and it overhangs both sides and the front of the frame by 1".

    The overhang at the front and sides will cover the ends of the fascia boards for a finished look.

    Fasten the plywood countertop to the frame rails and mid-support with 1-1/4" screws spaced approximately 8" apart.

  6. Install the Fascia Boards

    Lay the frame on its back so the front is facing up.

    Arrange twelve of the 1 x 4 fascia boards along the front of the frame so the two outer boards are flush with the ends of the frame and the rest of the boards are spaced evenly in between; they should be spaced about 3/8" apart, depending on the width of your fascia boards.

    Starting at one end, drill a pair of pilot holes through the fascia board and into the frame rails and mid-support, using the 20V MAX* Lithium Drill/Driver and a 5/32" drill bit. Apply glue to the rails and mid-support and fasten the board with six 1-1/4" screws.

    Install the rest of the fascia boards to the front, using the same techniques, and then do the same on both sides of the frame, using six fascia boards on each side.

    TIP: Depending on what type of screw you're using, pilot holes should be just slightly smaller than the screw. The idea is to allow the hole to be big enough for the screw to pass through without splitting the wood, but at the same time, small enough so that the threads grip firmly.

  7. Add the Sign Supports

    Set the stand facedown.

    Position one of the 2 x 2 sign supports against one of the frame corner posts so the pieces are perfectly aligned and the sign support is flush with the bottom of the stand. Fasten the sign support to the corner post with four 2-1/2" screws.

    Repeat to install the other sign support at the other side of the stand.

  8. Sand the Stand

    Sand everything smooth with the BLACK+DECKER 5 in. Random Orbit Sander and 120-grit sandpaper.

    Lightly round over all exposed edges so there are no sharp edges or corner and no splinters.

    TIP: For a finished look, fill over the screw heads with wood putty, using a putty knife. Let the putty dry as directed before sanding it flush to the wood surface.

  9. Paint the Project

    Paint the countertop, sign supports and exposed parts of the frame using paint colors of your choice. We alternated white and yellow paint.

    Paint the 1/4 x 6" piece of poplar using the chalkboard paint to create the sign. Allow the paint to dry as directed.

  10. Hang the Sign

    Attach the sign (H) to the top of the two sign supports with 1-1/4" screws, overhanging the supports equally at both ends.

    TIP: Use white or a brightly colored chalk to write “LEMONADE” or other messages on the sign. Add decorations for a finished look.

    Finished Lemonade Stand

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