0utdoor entertaining events often turn into an endless parade between the patio and the refrigerator, or a loose huddle around an old foam cooler. With this portable party cart, you can keep your guests refreshed on site and in style. The tileboard top is generously proportioned and easy to clean. With a capacity of 15 cubic feet, the insulated cooler compartment has plenty of room for cans, bottles, even kegs, as well as ice and snacks. You can add accessories to help the cart meet your needs. A few suggestions: attach a bottle opener, paper towel holder, or plastic cup dispenser to the cabinet side; drill a 1"-diameter hole through the side to create a passage for a keg hose, then cover the hole with a plastic grommet; mount a flagpole holder on the back of the cart to hold a beach umbrella.
BUILD THE CABINET FRAME
The main structural element of our party cart is a cabinet frame made from 2 × 4 and 1 × 4 cedar. Start by cutting the bottom stretchers (A) and bottom side rails (B) from 2 × 4s. Lay the rails on edge on your work surface, then set the stretchers facedown between the rails. One stretcher should be set flush at each end, with the other two spaced evenly between the ends (the assembly should look like a ladder). Drill pilot holes, then fasten the side rails to the stretchers with 3" deck screws. Then, cut the top side rails (C) and top end rails (D) from 1 × 4s. Cut a gentle, 1 1/2"-deep scoop into each top rail, using your jig saw. The scoops should start 4" from each end of the top end rails. In the top side rails, start cutting the scoops 9 1/4" from the front ends, and 11 1/4" from the back ends. Assemble the top side and top end rails into a square frame. The back end rail should be recessed 6" from the back ends of the side rails. Drill pilot holes with 3/8"-dia. × 1/4"-deep counterbores through the side rails and into the end rails. Fasten the rails together with glue and 2" deck screws, then plug the counterbores with 3/8''-dia. cedar plugs. Cut the 2 × 4 posts (E), and arrange them so they fit at the outside comers of the 2 × 4 frame base and the inside comers of the 1 × 4 frame top. Make sure the frame base is positioned with the recesses beneath the stretchers facing down. Attach the top and bottom frames to the posts with 3" deck screws and glue at the bottom, and 2" deck screws and glue at the top (photo A).
ATTACH SIDE PANELS TO CABINET FRAME
To form the cabinet for the cooler compartment, wrap the cabinet frame with plywood. Before you attach the plywood, attach a 2 × 4 rail filler (F) to the outer face of each bottom side rail in the frame base. The rail fillers eliminate gaps between the side rails and the sides of the cabinet. Cut the rail fillers, then attach them to the bottom side rails with 2 1/2" deck screws. Cut the bottom panel (G) from 1/2"-thick plywood and attach it to the underside of the frame base with 1 1/2" deck screws. The top panel rests on cleats fastened to the inside faces of the 1 × 4s at the top of the cabinet frame. Measure down 2 1/4" from the tops of the frame pieces, then draw reference lines for the cleats. Cut the 1 × 3 tabletop cleats (H) and attach them just below the reference lines, using 1 1/2" deck screws. Cut the end panels (I) and the side panel (J) from plywood, and position them against the cabinet frame so all panels overhang the frame base by 1/2". Attach the panels to the frame with 1" deck screws (photo B).Cut post covers (K) from 1/2" plywood and attach them to the 2 × 4 posts at the open side.
BUILD THE DOORS
The cooler compartment doors are made from 1/2" plywood, with 1 × 3 rails and stiles attached to the back side to stiffen the plywood. Cut the door panels (L), door stiles (M), and door rails (N). Attach the door rails and stiles with glue and 1" screws driven through the fronts of the door panels (photo C); attach the upper door rail to the inside (unsanded) edge of each door panel, 1 5/8" down from the top edge and centered side to side; attach the lower rail 4 1/8" up from the bottom of the panel; attach vertical stiles so they are flush with the outer edges of the rails to complete the doors.
BUILD AND INSTALL THE CART TOP
The cart top is cut from 1/2" plywood, then covered with tileboard to create a smooth, water-resistant surface that is easy to clean. Cut the plywood tabletop panel (0), then cut a piece of 1/4"-thick tileboard (P) to the same size. Tileboard is usually sold in 4 × 8' sheets that resemble interior paneling. It is available in a wide variety of textures and finishes. We chose a fairly neutral, biscuit-colored style. If you are willing to spend the extra money, you can substitute fiberglass shower liner panels for a more long-lasting tabletop surface. Attach the tileboard to the sanded side of the top panel with exterion rated tileboard adhesive (photo D), according to the recommended application methods and drying times. After the adhesive has set, use a jig saw to cut out 1 1/2 × 3 1/2" notches from the corners of the cart top to fit around the cabinet-frame posts. Make sure the cutouts are oriented correctly. Apply a thick bead of panel adhesive to the tops of the 1 × 3 cleats mounted on the inside faces of the frame top, then set the cart top onto the cleats and press down firmly. Do not nail or screw the top in place. Set some heavy weights on the surface while the adhesive dries.
LINE THE COOLER COMPARTMENT
We used 1 1/2"-thick open-cell foam insulation boards to insulate the cooler compartment. For greater durability and better insulation performance, you can substitute closed-cell insulation boards with a puncture-resistant facing. The insulation boards are attached to the interior walls of the cabinet, and to the back sides of the doors, with panel adhesive. Cut insulation boards slightly oversize so you can use compression to help hold them in place. Use a sharp utility knife to cut insulation boards to fit into the gaps between the stretchers on the floor of the cabinet, and to fit between the rails and stiles on the doors. Also cut insulation to fit the walls and top of the compartment. Attach all the insulation boards (photo E). Cut a second piece of tileboard (P) the same size as the top panel. Apply tileboard adhesive to the tops of the exposed stretchers in the frame bottom, and install the tileboard to make a bottom for the compartment. To protect the inside walls and top of the compartment, cut tileboard to fit and attach it to the insulation boards with panel adhesive (optional).
HANG THE DOORS
Center the doors over the door opening, with the top edges aligned, and hang them from the plywood post covers (K) with 2" brass butt hinges. Leave a gap of about 1/8" between doors.
ACCESSORIZE THE TOP
The bottle caddy and napkin/condiment bin are optional features that give the party cart greater versatility. Cut the bottle caddy (Q) from 1 × 10 cedar, then cut evenly spaced 4"-dia. holes in the board. Smooth out the cuts with a drum sander mounted on your electric drill. Set the bottle caddy over the frame top at the front end of the cart, and attach it to the frame with 1" screws. Cut the bin side (S) and the bin dividers (T) from 1 × 2 cedar. Space the dividers evenly along the divider side, and attach with 1" deck screws. Apply panel adhesive to the bottoms of the dividers and divider side, then set the assembly on the tabletop, with the free ends of the dividers flush against the back rail. Secure the rail to the dividers with 1" screws.
INSTALL THE HANDLE
We used a 1"-dia. oak dowel to make the handle that is mounted between the top frame rails at the back of the cart. Cut the handle (V) to length, then measure in 1" from the back ends of the top frame rails, and mark a point that is centered top-to-bottom. Use this point as a centerpoint to drill 1"-diameter holes through the rails, using a spade bit, to accommodate the handle. For added visual appeal, we used a jig saw to round off the ends of the rails once our handle position was established. Insert the handle through both 1" holes, so the ends are flush with the outside faces of the rails. Secure the handle by drilling 1/8" pilot holes through the rails and into the ends of the handle, then driving a 6d casing nail into each pilot end of the handle (photo F).
FINISH THE CART
We used a clear finish on the exposed cedar trim, then painted the plywood surfaces with exterior-grade enamel paint. Before applying paint and stain, fill exposed plywood edges and nails holes with wood putty, then sand smooth. Sand surface to at least 120-grit. After painting and finishing, install the remaining hardware. To keep the doors closed securely, we used a brass clasp and magnetic door catches. We used brass window sash handles for the door pulls. Because the cart is designed to carry a load in excess of 100 pounds, we installed heavy-duty, locking casters to the bottom of each post.
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