Directions: Lean-to Tool Bin

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BUILDING THE LEAN-TO TOOL BIN

Step A: Build the Foundation & Floor Frame

1. Excavate the building site and add a 4" layer of compactible gravel. Tamp the gravel thoroughly, making sure it is flat and level.

2. Cut two 4 × 4 treated timber skids at 70 3/4". Arrange and level the skids on the gravel bed, following the FLOOR FRAMING PLAN.

3. Cut two 2 × 6 rim joists at 70 3/4", and cut six joists at 44 3/8". Mark the joist layout onto the rim joists, following the plan. Assemble the frame with 16d galv. common nails—be sure to check each joist for crowning and to install it with the crowned edge up.

4. Set the floor frame on top of the skids and measure the diagonals to make sure it's square. Toenail the joists to the skids with 16d galv. common nails and install metal clip angles where the two outer joists meet the skids, using 1 1/2" joist hanger nails and 16d galv. common nails.

5. Cut the plywood floor sheathing to 47 3/8" × 70 3/4" and install it with 8d galv. box nails driven every 6" along the edges and every 12" in the field.

Check the squareness of the floor frame by measuring diagonally between the outsides of the corners.

Install the front and rear top plates so they span the width of building, covering the side-wall end studs.

Step B: Frame the Walls

Note: In this step, you'll install all of the squarecut studs and plates and the header. In step D you'll install the angle-cut studs and top plates for the side walls.

1. Snap chalk lines on the floor for the wall plates.

2. Cut the 2 × 4 bottom plates: two at 47 3/8" for the side walls and two at 63 3/4" for the front and back walls. Cut three 2 × 4 top plates at 70 3/4".

3. Cut six studs at 89" for the rear wall, four at 89" and four at 69" for the side walls, and four at 63 1/2" for the jack studs in the front wall.

4. Build the header at 63 3/4", using two 2 × 6s and 1/2" plywood.

5. Mark the stud layouts onto the plates following the FLOOR PLAN.

6. Nail the four end studs of each side wall to the bottom plate. Raise the side walls and fasten the bottom plates to the floor. Assemble, raise, and fasten the rear and front walls, leaving the top plates off at this time. Also leave off the second stud in from the left side of the rear wall (toenail that stud in place after nailing the corners together). Nail together the corner studs of the adjacent walls, making sure the studs are plumb.

7. Install the rear top plates, one at a time—the plates should span between the outsides of the side-wall studs. Install the single top plate on the front wall, making sure the door opening is square.

Toenail the ledger to the rear wall plates, then install the rafters. Endnail through the ledger and into the rafters.

Transfer the layout by holding a plumb bob on the stud markings and marking where the string hits the plate.

Step D: Complete the Side Wall Framing

1. Cut a 2 × 4 top plate to fit between the front and rear wall plates, at each side of the bin, angle-cutting the ends at 26 1/2°. Position the plates against the undersides of the rafters so their edges are flush with the outside rafter faces. Fasten the plates to the rafters with 16d nails.

2. Use a plumb bob to transfer the stud layout marks from the bottom plates to the top plates.

3. Cut the remaining four studs to fit between the plates, angling the top ends at 26 1/2°. Toenail the studs to the plates with 8d nails.

Mark the side fascia so it tapers with a horizontal line that meets the bottom edge of the 1 × 4 front fascia.

Install shingle courses up to the rear edge, then finish the edge with cut shingles or a solid starter strip.

Step F: Install the Sheathing & Roofing

1. Install the 1/2" plywood sheathing perpendicular to the rafters. Rip the first piece to width at about 41" and install it at the lower roof edge, then rip the upper piece to fit, and install it. Fasten the sheathing with 8d box nails driven every 6" along the edges and every 12" in the field of the sheets.

2. Attach metal drip edge along the front edge of the roof, then apply 15# building paper over the sheathing. Add drip edge along the side and rear edges, on top of the paper.

3. Install the asphalt shingles, starting at the front edge of the roof. Finish the roof along the top edge with custom-cut shingles, or install a continuous roofing strip (starter strip). Cover all exposed nail heads with roofing cement.

Fasten the horizontal Z-brace boards, then lay the angled board over them and mark it for cutting.

Rip the vertical door trim boards to width, then notch them to fit around the rafters.

Step H: Add the Trim

1. Staple fiberglass bug screen to the front wall plate and the roof sheathing, to block each rafter bay (see the OVERHANG DETAIL).a

2. Cut and install the 1 × 8 trim above the door (see the OVERHANG DETAIL), overlapping the side door jambs about 1/4" on each side. Notch the top edge of the board to fit around the rafters. Fasten the trim with 8d galv. finish nails.

3. Rip two 1 × 10 vertical door trim boards to width so they will cover the 1 × 4 corner trim and about 1/2" of the doorjamb, as shown in the DOOR JAMB DETAIL. Cut them to length so they reach from the bottom edge of the siding to the top edge of the 1 × 8 above the door. Notch the top ends to fit around the rafters, and install the trim.

4. Cut and install a horizontal 1 × 8 bottom door trim board between the vertical boards, with its top edge flush with the floor. Install the 1 × 4 corner trim, overlapping the pieces at the rear corners.

 Directions: Lean-to Tool Bin