BUILDING THE VICTORIAN GAZEBO
Step A: Pour the Concrete Pier Footings
Note: See other instructions on laying out and pouring concrete pier footings. Use 12"-dia. cardboard tube forms for the eight outer piers and a 16"-dia. form for the center pier.
1. Set up batter boards in a square pattern, and attach tight mason's lines to form a 9 × 9-ft. square. Take diagonal measurements to make sure the lines are square to one another. Attach two more lines that run diagonally from the corners and cross in the center of the square—this intersection represents the center of the center footing.
2. Measure 31 5/8" in both directions from each corner and make a mark on a piece of tape attached to the line. These points represent the centers of the eight outer footings.
3. At each of the nine points, use a plumb bob to transfer the point to the ground, and mark the point with a stake. Remove the mason's lines.
4. Dig holes for the forms and add a 4" layer of gravel to each hole. Set the forms so the tops of the outer forms are 2" above grade and the center form is 11" above grade. Level the forms and secure them with packed soil. Restring the mason's lines and confirm that the forms are centered under the nine points.
5. Fill each form with concrete. Screed the tops, then insert a 5/8" × 12" J-bolt in the center of the form. Use a plumb bob to align the J-bolt with the point on the line layout. On the outer footings, set the bolts so they protrude 3/4" to 1" from the concrete; on the center footing, set the bolt to protrude 5". Let the concrete cure completely.
Measure in 31 5/8" from the corners of the string layout to mark the centers of the outside piers.
Set a board across the center and each outer footing and mark a line across the top of the outer footing.
Step B: Set the Posts
1. Use a straight board to mark reference lines for squaring the post anchors. Set the board on top of one of the outer footings and on the center footing. Holding the board against the same side of the J-bolts, draw a pencil line along the board across the tops of the footings. Do the same for the remaining footings.
2. Place a metal post anchor on each footing and center it over the J-bolt. Use a framing square to position the anchor so it's square to the reference line (see photo F). Secure the anchor with washers and a nut.
3. Set each post in an anchor, tack it in place with a nail, then brace it with temporary cross braces so that it's perfectly plumb. Secure the post to the anchor, using the fasteners recommended by the manufacturer. (Note: You will cut the posts to length during the construction of the roof frame.)
Step C: Install the Perimeter Floor Beams
1. Starting at one of the posts that will be nearest to the stairs, measure from the ground and mark the post at 20 1/2". Draw a level line at this mark around all four sides of the post. Transfer this height mark to the other posts, using a mason's line and a line level. These marks represent the tops of the 2 × 6 perimeter beams and the double joists of the floor frame.
2. Measure down 5 1/2" from the post marks and make a second mark on all sides of each post. Notch the outer posts to accept the inner member of the perimeter floor beams, as shown in the FLOOR BEAM SUPPORT DETAIL, using a handsaw or circular saw and a chisel.
3. Cut the inner members of the perimeter floor beams to extend between the centers of the notches of adjacent posts, angling the ends at 22 1/2°. Set the members into the notches and tack them to the posts with two 16d galv. common nails.
4. Cut the outer members of the perimeter beams to fit around the inner members, angling the ends at 22 1/2° so they fit together at tight miter joints (you may have to adjust the angles a little). Anchor the perimeter beams to the posts with two 1/2" × 6" lag screws at each end, as shown in the FLOOR BEAM SUPPORT DETAIL. Fasten the inner and outer beams together with pairs of 10d galv. common nails driven every 12".
Cut the post notches by making horizontal cuts with a handsaw, then removing the material with a chisel.
Miter the ends of four of the double joists so they meet flush with the full-length joist and those perpendicular to it.
Step D: Install the Double Joists
1. Fasten metal anchors to the centers of the posts so the tops of the joists will be flush with the upper line drawn in Step C (also, see the FLOOR FRAMING PLAN).
2. Cut two 2 × 6 joists to span between two opposing posts, as shown in the FLOOR FRAMING PLAN (check the boards for crowning, and make sure to install them crown-up). Nail the joists together with pairs of 10d galv. common nails spaced every 12".
3. Set the double joist into the hangers and leave it in place while you build and fit the wood pad that supports the joists at the center pier (see the CENTER PIER DETAIL).
4. Cut two 2 × 12 plates—one from two of the boards you'll use for the stair stringers—and cut a shim at 11 1/4". Use treated plywood or treated lumber for the shim (if necessary, sand a lumber shim to the correct thickness with a belt sander.) Test-fit the pad, then remove the joist.
5. Fasten together the plates and shim with 16d galv. nails. Drill a counterbore hole for the anchor nut and washer into the top plate, then drill a 5/8" hole through the center of the plates and shim. Secure the pad to the pier with construction adhesive and an anchor nut and washer.
6. Install the double joist, fastening it to the anchors with the recommended nails and toenailing it to the center pad with 10d galv. nails.
7. Cut and assemble two double joists that run perpendicular to the full-length double joist. Install the joists at the midpoint of the full-length joist, toenailing them to the joist and pad.
8. Cut the remaining four double joists so their inside ends taper together at 45°. Install the joists following the FLOOR FRAMING PLAN.
Step E: Install the Angled Floor Joists
1. Mark the perimeter beam 11" from the post sides to represent the outside faces of the sixteen floor joists (see the FLOOR FRAMING PLAN). Then, measure from the inside face of each post toward the center and mark both sides of the double joists at 25"—this mark represents the end of the angled joist.
2. Install metal joist anchors on the perimeter beams and skewable anchors on the double joists, using the recommended fasteners.
3. Cut and install the 2 × 6 angled floor joists, following the anchor manufacturer's instructions.
Fasten the angled floor joists to the sides of the double joists with skewable (adjustable) metal anchors.
Fill the 2 × 4 form for the stair pad with concrete, then screed the tops with a straight piece of 2 × 4.
Step F: Pour the Stair Pad
Note: The concrete pad sits square to one side of the floor frame, 12" from the outside face of the perimeter beam (see the STAIR DETAIL).
1. Using stakes or mason's line, mark a rectangular area that is 39 × 49", positioning its long side 10 1/2" from the perimeter beam. Center the rectangle between the two nearest posts.
2. Excavate within the area to a depth of 7". Add 4" of compactible gravel and tamp it thoroughly.
3. Build a form from 2 × 4 lumber that is 36" × 42" (inner dimensions). Set the form with stakes so that the inside face of its long side is 12" from the perimeter beam and the form is centered between the nearest posts. Make sure the top of the form is level and is 19 1/2" from the top of the perimeter beam.
4. Fill the form with concrete, screed the top flat, and float the concrete, if desired. Round over the edges of the pad with a concrete edger. Let the concrete cure for 24 hours, then remove the form and backfill around the pad with soil or gravel.
Step G: Build the Stairs
Note: The STRINGER TEMPLATE, is designed for a gazebo that measures 21" from the stair pad to the top of the floor deck. If your gazebo is at a different height, adjust the riser dimension of the steps to match your project: divide the floor height (including the decking) by three to find the riser height for each step.
1. Use a framing square to lay out the first 2 × 12 stair stringer, following the STRINGER TEMPLATE: Starting at one end of the board, position the framing square along the top edge of the board. Align the 11" mark on the square's blade (long part) and the 7" mark on the tongue (short part) with the edge of the board. Trace along the outer edges of the blade and tongue, then use the square to extend the blade marking to the other edge of the board. The tongue mark represents the first riser.
2. Measure 1 1/2" from the bottom mark and draw another line that is parallel to it—this is the cutting line for the bottom of the stringer (the 1 1/2" is an allowance for the thickness of the treads of the first step).
3. Continue the step layout, starting at the point where the first riser mark intersects the top edge of the board. Draw lines for the tread of the first step and the riser of the second step. Repeat this process to draw one more step and a top cutting line.
4. Measure 10 1/2" from the top riser and make a mark on the top cutting line. Draw a perpendicular line from the cutting line to the opposite edge of the board—this line represents the top end cut.
5. Cut the stringer and test-fit it against the stair pad and perimeter beam. Make any necessary adjustments. Using the stringer as a pattern, trace the layout onto the two remaining stringer boards, then cut the stringers.
6. Attach the stringers to the perimeter floor beam with metal angles, following the layout shown in the FLOOR FRAMING PLAN.
7. From scrap pressure-treated 2 × 4 lumber, cut kicker blocks to fit between the bottom ends of the stair stringers. Fasten the blocks to the concrete pad with construction adhesive and masonry screws or nails, then nail through the sides of the stringers into the kickers with 16d galv. common nails.
Align the framing square with the top edge of the board. Make a 11" tread mark by tracing along the square's tongue, the riser mark along the blade.
Install the decking by completing one row at a time.
Step H: Install the Decking
1. Cut an octagonal starter piece from a cedar 2 × 8: Draw two lines across the board to make a 7 1/4 × 7 1/4" square. Make a mark 2 1/8" in from each corner, then connect the marks to form an octagon. Cut the starter piece and position it in the center of the floor frame, with each point centered on a double joist. Drill pilot holes and attach the piece with 3" deck screws.
2. Cut the 2 × 6 deck boards for each row one at a time. The end cuts for each boards should be 22 1/2°, but you may have to adjust the angles occasionally to make tight joints. Gap the boards, if desired, but make sure the gaps are consistent—use scrap wood or nails as spacers. Drill pilot holes and drive two screws wherever a board meets a framing member. Measure periodically to make sure the boards are parallel to the perimeter beams. Overhang the perimeter beams by 1/2" with the outer row of decking.
3. Install the 2 × 6 treads and 1 × 8 riser boards on the stairs following the STAIR DETAIL.
Step I: Set the Roof Beams
1. Measure up from the floor deck and mark one of the posts at 101 1/2". Transfer that mark to the remaining posts, using a mason's line and a line level. Mark a level cutting line around all sides of each post, then cut the posts with a reciprocating saw or handsaw.
2. On the top of each post, draw a line down the middle that points toward the center of the structure. Cut each of the four 6 × 8 timber beams in half so you have eight 5-ft.-Iong beams.
3. Set each beam on top of two neighboring posts so its outside face is flush with the outside corners of the posts. Mark the inside face of the beam where it meets the post centerlines—these marks represent cuts at each end (see the CORNER DETAIL AT ROOF BEAM LINE). Also mark the underside of the beam by tracing along the outside faces of the posts—these lines show you where to trim off the beams so they will be flush with the outside post faces. Use a square to extend the marks down around the post sides to help keep your cuts straight.
4. Starting from the end-cut marks, cut the beam ends at 22 1/2°. Trim off the corners at the underside marks. Mark and cut the remaining beams, test-fitting the angles as you go.
5. Install the beams, securing them to the posts with metal T-anchors. Bend the side flanges of the anchors, as shown in the CORNER DETAIL AT ROOF BEAM LINE, and fasten the anchors with the recommended fasteners. Tie the beams together with galvanized metal plates fastened with 16d galv. box nails.
Mark the inside faces of the beams at the post centerlines. Mark the beam undersides along the outside post faces.
Attach the rafters to the anchors on the roof hub, driving the nails at a slight angle, if necessary.
Step J: Install the Hip Rafters
1. Cut the roof hub from an 8 × 8 post, following the RAFTER HUB DETAIL. You can have the hub cut for you at a lumberyard or cut it yourself using a table saw or circular saw. Cut the post at 16", then mark an octagon on each end: make a mark 2 1/8" in from each corner, then join the marks. The cuts are at 45°. If you use a circular saw, extend the cutting lines down the sides of the post to ensure straight cuts.
2. Draw a line around the perimeter of the hub, 3 1/2" from the bottom end. Center a metal anchor on each hub side, with its bottom flush to the line, and fasten it to the hub using the recommended nails.
3. Cut two pattern 2 × 6 hip rafters, following the RAFTER TEMPLATES. Tack the rafters to opposing sides of the hub and test-fit the rafters on the roof beams. The bottom rafter ends should fall over the post centers. Make any necessary adjustments to the rafter cuts.
4. Use a pattern rafter to mark and cut the six remaining hip rafters. Install the rafters, toenailing the bottom ends to the roof beams with one 16d common nail on each side. Fasten the top ends to the anchors with 1 1/2" galv. joist hanger nails, then install metal anchors at the bottom rafter ends, using the recommended nails.
Step K: Install Purlins Intermediate Rafters
1. On each side of each hip rafter, measure up from the cut edge at the lower rafter end and make a mark at 5l 3/4"—these marks represent the lower faces of the purlins (see the ROOF FRAMING PLAN, the BUILDING SECTION, and the RAFTER TEMPLATES).
2. Cut the 2 × 6 purlins, beveling the ends at 22 1/2°. Position them between the rafters so their top edges are flush with the top edges of the rafters. Endnail or toenail the purlins to the rafters with 16d common nails.
3. Mark the layout for the intermediate rafters onto the tops of the roof beams, following the ROOF FRAMING PLAN.
4. Cut a pattern intermediate rafter, following the RAFTER TEMPLATES. Test-fit the rafter and make any necessary adjustments. Use the pattern rafter to mark and cut the fifteen remaining rafters.
5. Install the rafters, endnailing their top ends to the purlins and toenailing their bottom ends to the beams with 16d nails. Install metal anchors to secure the bottom rafter ends to the beams.
Bevel-cut the ends of the purlins so they meet flush with the rafter faces, and install them between the hip rafters.
Install the collar ties so that the upper pair rest on top of, and are perpendicular to, the lower pair.
Step L: Install the Collar Ties
1. Cut two 2 × 6 collar ties to span between the outsides of the roof beams, as shown in the ROOF FRAMING PLAN. Clip the top corners of the ties so they don't project above the top edges of the intermediate rafters.
2. Install the ties to the outside faces of neighboring intermediate rafters, as shown in the ROOF FRAMING PLAN—it doesn't matter which rafters you use, as long as the basic configuration matches the plan. Fasten the ties with 10d facenails.
3. Set two uncut 2 × 6 collar ties on top of—and perpendicular to—the installed collar ties so both ends extend beyond the intermediate rafters on opposing sides of the roof (see the ROOF FRAMING PLAN). Mark the ends of the ties by tracing along the top rafter edges.
4. Cut the marked ties, then clip the top corners. Fasten the ties to the outside faces of the rafters with 10d nails.
Step M: Add the Fascia & Roof Sheathing
1. Cut the 2 × 4 fascia, mitering the ends at 22 1/2°. Install the fascia with its top edges 3/4" above the rafters so it will be flush with the roof sheathing—use 16d galv. casing nails.
2. Install the 1 × 6 tongue-and-groove roof sheathing, starting at the lower edge of the roof. Angle-cut the ends of the boards at 22 1/2°, cutting them to length so their ends break on the centers of the hip rafters. Fit the tongue-and-groove joints together, and facenail the sheathing to the hip and intermediate rafters with 8d galv. box nails.
Miter the ends of the sheathing boards and make sure the tongue-and-groove joints are tight before nailing.
Shingle the roof sides individually, then cover the hip ridges with caps, overlapping the shingles equally on both sides.
Step N: Install the Roofing
1. Install metal drip edge along the bottom edges of the roof, angle-cutting the ends.
2. Add 15# building paper over the sheathing and drip edge. Overlap the paper at each hip by 6".
3. Install the asphalt shingles on one section of the roof at a time. Trim the shingles flush with the hip ridges.
4. Cover the hip ridges with manufactured cap shingles or caps you cut from standard shingles.
5. Piece in metal flashing around the roof hub, and seal all flashing seams and cover all exposed nail heads with roofing cement.
6. Install the wood sphere on the center of the roof hub, using a large dowel screw.
Step O: Build the Overhead Lattice Screens
1. On the side faces of each post, mark the center of the post width. Then measure over, toward the gazebo center, one-half the thickness of the lattice panels and make a second mark. Use a level to draw a plumb line, starting from the second mark and extending down 17 1/2" from the roof beam (see the ROOF EDGE DETAIL). Draw a level line across the post face at the end of the vertical line (at the 17 1/2" mark). Also, snap a chalk line between the vertical lines on the underside of the beams—these will guide the placement of the top inner stops.
2. Cut a cedar 2 × 4 rail to span between each set of posts, so the bottom rail edge is on the level line and the side face is on the plumb line-bevel the ends at 22 1/2°. Fasten the rails to the posts with 3" deck screws.
3. Cut 5/4 × 5/4 (about 1 1/8 × 1 1/8" actual dimension) cedar inner stops to span between posts underneath the roof beams. Bevel the ends at 22 1/2°and fasten the stops to the beams with 8d galv. finish nails so their side faces are flush to the chalk lines.
4. The vertical stops of the overhead screens and the screens below the railings (Step P) are 5/4 × 5/4s that have one edge beveled at 22 1/2°. It will save time to rip all of them at once, using a table saw, if available—you'll need about 100 linear feet.
5. Cut and install the inner vertical stops with their sides flush to the plumb lines drawn on the posts.
6. Cut eight lattice panels at 16 × 39 5/8". Set the panels against the inner stops and rails and fasten them with 3d galv. finish nails.
7. Cut and install the outer rails and stops to complete the screens. Fasten the rails with 3" deck screws driven through the inner rails, and fasten the stops with 8d galv. finish nails driven into the posts and beams.
Install the inner stops and rails on the layout lines. The vertical stops are beveled at 22 1/2° (inset).
Set the lattice panels against the inner stops and rails, and fasten them with 3d galvanized finish nails.
Step P: Build the Railings & Lower Lattice
1. Measure up from the deck and mark the side faces of each post at 3" and 36". Draw level lines across the faces at these marks. Draw a plumb line between the level marks by finding the post center and moving inward one-half the thickness of the lattice, as you did in Step O.
2. Cut the 2 × 4 cedar top rails to fit between seven pairs of posts (skipping the two posts flanking the stairs), as shown in the DETAIL AT DECK EDGE. Miter the rail ends at 22 1/2° and install them with 3" deck screws so they are centered on the posts and their top faces are on the upper level lines.
3. Cut and install the 2 × 4 inner bottom rails and 5/4 × 5/4 stops, following the procedure in Step O.
4. Cut the lattice panels at 31 × 39 5/8". Fasten the panels against the stops and lower rails with 3d galv. finish nails.
5. Cut and install the outer bottom rails, securing them with screws, then cut and install the outer horizontal and vertical stops.
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