Directions: Timber-frame Garden Shed

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BUILDING THE TIMBER-FRAME GARDEN SHED

Step A: Build the Foundation & Floor Frame

1. Excavate the building site and add a 4" layer of compactible gravel. Tamp the gravel thoroughly, making sure it is level.

2. Cut three 4 × 4 treated timber skids at 120". Arrange and level the skids on the gravel bed, following the FLOOR FRAMING PLAN.

3. Cut 2 × 6 rim joists at 120" and nine joists at 93". Mark the joist layout onto the rim joists, following the plan. Assemble the frame with 16d galv. common nails—be sure to check each joist for crowning and install it with the crowned edge up.

4. Set the floor frame on top of the skids and measure the diagonals to make sure it's square. Install joist clip angles at each joist along the two outer skids, using 1 1/2" joist hanger nails. Toenail each joist to the center skid with 16d galv. nails.

5. Install the tongue-and-groove floor sheathing, starting with a full sheet at one corner of the frame. Use 8d galv. box nails driven every 6" along the edges and every 12" in the field.

Secure the floor frame to the foundation skids with angles (outside skids) and toenails (center skid).

Start the notches with a series of saw cuts, then remove the material with a sharp wood chisel.

Step B: Cut & Notch the Posts

1. Cut six 4 × 4 posts at 90 1/2", making sure both ends are square.

2. The four corner posts have 3 1/2"-Iong × l 1/2"-deep notches on two adjacent sides, to accept the girts (note that the notches overlap each other by 1 1/2"). Mark the bottoms of the notches at 46 1/4" from the bottom ends of the posts. Use a square to mark the complete outline of the notches.

The two door-frame posts each have one notch for a girt and one for the door header, also 3 1/2"-Iong × 1 1/2"-deep. Mark the bottom of the girt notches at 46 1/4" and the bottom of the header notches at 82".

3. Set a circular saw to cut exactly 1 1/2" deep. Cut the notches one at a time: first make the cuts at the top and bottom of the notch, then make a series of cuts to remove the material in between. Clean out the notch with a sharp chisel. Test-fit the notch using the end of a 4 × 4—it should fit snugly.

4. Cut and test-fit the remaining notches.

Anchor the six posts to the floor with metal post bases. Use galvanized nails to fasten the bases and posts.

Join the beams with half-lap joints (inset). Fasten the braces to the posts and beams with lag screws.

Step D: Cut & Install the Beams & Braces

1. Cut two 4 × 6 beams at 120" and two at 96", using a circular saw and handsaw or a power miter saw.

2. Cut the notches for the half-lap joints at the beam ends. Measure the width (4" nominal) and depth (6" nominal) of the beams, and mark the notches to equal the width × 1/2 of the depth. Orient the notches as shown in the FRAMING ELEVATIONS. Start the cuts with a circular saw, complete them with a handsaw, and smooth the notches with a chisel. Assemble the beams on the ground to test-fit the notches.

3. Set a 96" beam onto the front-wall posts and tack it in place with one 16d nail at each end. Measure the diagonals of the wall frame to make, sure it's square. Drill pilot holes and drive two 60d common nails through each notch and into the post. Install the other 96" beam on the rear posts.

4. Set the 120" beams on top of the short beams, and check the side walls for squareness. Secure each half-lap joint with two 60d nails. Install a postbeam connector on the outside of each corner and on both sides of the door posts, using the recommended nails. Install an L-connector on the inside of each corner (see the EAVE DETAIL), using the recommended nails.

5. Cut eight 4 × 4 corner braces at 20", mitering the ends at 45°. Position each brace at a corner so the ends are flush with the sides of the post and beam, and secure it with a bar clamp.

6. Drill a counterbored pilot hole 4 1/2" from each end of the braces and fasten them to the beams and posts with 3/8" × 6" lag screws.

Notch one girt end for each corner joint. Secure the girts to the posts with adhesive and 20d nails (inset).

Install blocks between the two middle rafters, then build the skylight frame from notched 2 × 8s.

Step F: Frame the Roof

1. Cut two pattern rafters, following the RAFTER TEMPLATE. Test-fit the rafters using a 2 × 6 spacer block to represent the ridge, then cut the ten remaining rafters.

2. Cut the 2 × 6 ridge board at 120". Draw the rafter layout onto the beams and ridge board, using 24" on-center spacing.

3. Install the rafters. Reinforce the rafter-beam connections with metal anchors on all but the four outer rafters, using the recommended nails.

4. Cut two 2 × 4 collar ties at 58", mitering the ends at 45°. Position the ties on the outside faces of the two middle rafters so they are level and their ends are 1/2" away from the tops of the rafters. Facenail them to the rafters with three 10d common nails at each end.

5. Cut four 2 × 2s to extend from the roof peak to the rafter ends (see the GABLE OVERHANG DETAIL). Nail the 2 × 2s to the rafters with the top edges flush, using 10d nails.

6. Build the skylight frame, starting with the header and sill blocks. Measure from the ends of the two middle rafters and mark their inside faces at 16" and 64". Cut two 2 × 4 blocks to fit between the rafters at these marks. Set the blocks with their inside faces on the marks and their edges flush with the rafters, and endnail them with two 16d nails at each end (the blocks should be 48" apart).

7. Using a router or a table saw, cut a 3/4"-wide × 1/2"-deep continuous notch into the top, corner edge of the skylight frame stock (see the SKYLIGHT DETAIL). Cut the frame pieces to length, mitering the ends at 45°. Position the frame pieces flush with the bottom edges of the rafters and facenail them with 10d nails.

8. Measure the frame at the notches and order the skylight glass to fit. Also order the metal flashing for the skylight frame.

Add the siding to the end walls, fastening it to the rafters and timber framing with two facenails at each support.

Install the subfascia along the eaves, then add the fascia and 1 × 2 trim along the top fascia edges.

Step H: Install the Fascia, Soffits & Remaining Siding

1. Cut and install the 1 × 4 subfascia along the eaves (see the EAVE DETAIL), using 8d box nails. Keep the ends flush with the outsides of the end rafters, and the top edges flush with the top rafter edges.

2. Install the 1 × 6 fascia and 1 × 2 trim along the gable overhangs, then along the eaves, using 8d galv. finish nails. Hold the fascia 1/2" above the rafters so it will be flush with the sheathing.

3. Rip the 3/8" plywood soffit panels to fit between the wall framing and the fascia (see the EAVE DETAIL). Fasten the soffits to the rafters with 3d galv. box nails.

4. Cut holes for four soffit vents: locate one vent in each of the two outer rafter bays, on both sides of the building. Install the vents.

5. Install the siding along the side walls. Do not nail the siding to the window header in this step.

Cut the horizontal flanges of the bottom piece of skylight flashing and wrap the ends around the frame sides.

Lay the glass into the skylight frame and secure it with redwood stops. Use a beveled stop for the bottom piece.

Step J: Complete the Skylight

1. Apply glazing tape to the notches of the skylight frame. Set the glass over the tape, then apply tape along the glass edges (see the SKYLIGHT DETAIL).

2. Using a table saw, circular saw, or hand plane, taper one side of a 26"-Iong piece of 1 × 2 stop material, as shown in the SKYLIGHT DETAIL.

3. Cut the stops to fit around the frame, using the tapered stop for the bottom (sill) piece. Drill pilot holes and attach the stops with 6d galv. finish nails.

4. Caulk the nail holes and along the stop edges.

Attach the outer window stops, with the beveled stop at the bottom. Nail the center stops to the mullion.

Use shims to set the gaps along the door edges, and mount the door hinges with galvanized screws.

Step L: Build the Door & Install the Trim

1. Cut the head jamb for the door frame at 37 5/8" and the two side jambs at 80 7/8". Position the head jamb over the ends of the side jambs and fasten the pieces with 2 1/2" deck screws. Cut the 1 × 2 stops and install them 3/4" from the inside edges of the frame (see the DOOR JAMB DETAIL). If you want the door to swing out, install the stops 3/4" from the outside edges.

2. Install the frame in the rough opening, using shims and 10d galv. casing nails. Make sure the frame is square and plumb.

3. Cut seven pieces of 1 × 6 siding at 80 3/4". Fit the boards together with their ends flush, then mark the two end boards for trimming so that the total width is 36". Trim the end boards.

4. Cut the Z-brace boards following the DOOR DETAIL. Lay the door on a flat surface and attach the brace boards using construction adhesive and l 1/4" wood screws. Install the bottom hinge before the cross brace. Install the remaining hinges and hang the door.

5. Install flashing above the door, nail off the siding, then install the 1 × 3 door trim. Install the 1 × 3 window trim and the 1 × 4 corner trim.

 Directions: Timber-frame Garden Shed