PREPARE THE LEG ASSEMBLY

1. Cut the legs (A), stretchers (B) and spreader (C) to length. Measure and mark 4" up from the bottom edge of each leg to mark the positions of the bottom edges of the lower stretchers.

2. Test-fit the legs and stretchers to make sure they are square. The top stretchers should be flush with the top leg ends.

3. Carefully position the pieces and clamp them together with pipe clamps. The metal jaws on the pipe clamps can damage the wood, so use protective clamping pads.

BUILD THE LEG ASSEMBLY

1. Drill 7/8"-x 3/8"-deep counterbores positioned diagonally across the bottom end of each leg and opposite the lower stretchers (photo A). Drill 1/4"pilot holes through the counterbores and into the stretchers.

2. Unclamp the pieces and drill 3/8" holes for lag screws through the legs, using the pilot holes as center marks.

ATTACH CLEATS AND RAILS.

1. Cut the side rails (G) and end rails (H) to length. Drill two evenly spaced, 1/8" pilot holes through the ends of the side rails. Counterbore the holes 1/4" deep, using a counterbore bit. Apply glue and fasten the side rails to the end rails with 2" deck screws.

2. Cut the end cleats (D), cross cleats (E) and side cleats (F) to length. Fasten the end cleats to the end rails 3/4" below the top edges of the rails with glue and 2" deck screws (photo B). Repeat this procedure with the side cleats and side rails.

Tip

Buy or make wood plugs to fill screw holes and conceal screw heads. Building centers and woodworker's stores usually carry a variety of plug types in several sizes and styles. To cut your own wood plug, you can either use a special-purpose plug-cutting tool (sold at woodworker's stores), or a small hole saw that mounts to your power drill (sold at building centers). The diameter of the plug must match the counterbore drilled into the wood

CUT AND ATTACH THE TOP SLATS.

1. Cut the top slats (I) to length. Lay the slats into the tabletop frame so they rest on the cleats. Carefully spread the slats apart so they are evenly spaced. Use masking tape to hold the slats in place once you achieve the correct spacing (photo C).

2. Stand the tabletop frame on one end and fasten the top slats in place by driving two 2" deck screws through the end cleats and into each slat (photo D). Hold or clamp each slat firmly while fastening to prevent the screws from pushing the slats away from the frame.

Use pencils or dowels to set even gaps between top slats. Tape slats in position with masking tape.

Fasten cross cleats to the tabeltop for strength, and to provide and anchor for the leg assembly.

CONNECT THE LEGS AND TOP

1. Turn the tabletop over and center the legs on the underside. Make sure the legs are the same distance apart at the top as they are at the bottom.

2. Lay the cross cleats along the insides of the table legs (photo E). Fasten the cross cleats to the tabletop with 2" deck screws. Fasten the cross cleats to the legs with 3" deck screws.

Keep a firm grip on the tabletop slats when drilling deck screws through the cleats.

APPLY FINISHING TOUCHES.

Before you stain or treat the patio table, sand the surfaces smooth.