MAKE THE BACK SIDES.

The back sides of the patio chair provide the frame for the CPVC tubing. Make sure all your cuts are accurate and smooth to achieve good, snug-fitting joints.

1. Cut the back sides (G) to length, using a circular saw.

2. Drill the stopped holes for the plastic tubes on the inside faces of the back sides. These holes must be accurately positioned and drilled. Use a pencil with either a combination square or straightedge to draw centering line to mark the locations for the holes. Make the centering line 5/8" from the front edge of each back side.

3. Drill 5/8-dia. × 3/4"-deep holes and center them exactly 1" apart along the centerline. Start the first hole 3" from the bottom end of each back side. Use a portable drilling guide and a square to make sure the holes are straight and perfectly aligned (photo A). A portable drilling guide fits easily onto your power drill to ensure quick and accurate drilling. Some portable drilling guides are equipped with depth stops, making them the next best thing to a standard drill press.

4. Cut 1"-radius roundovers on the top front corner of each back side.

BUILD THE BACK FRAME.

1. Use a circular saw to cut the back rails (H) to length. These pieces will be attached to the inside faces of the back sides.

2. To eliminate the sharp edges, clamp the pieces to a stable work surface and use a sander or a router to soften the edges on the top and bottom of the back rails, and the top edges of the back sides.

3. Dry-fit the back rails and back sides and mark their positions with a pencil.

Tips

Plastic tubing is in many ways an ideal outdoor furniture material. It's a cool, strong material that is extremely lightweight and long lasting. It won't bleed onto the wood or stain as it ages like metal frames and fasteners, and when it gets dirty, all you need to do is wash it off with some soap and water.

COMPLETE THE BACK ASSEMBLY .

Before assembling the back, you need to prepare the CPVC tubing for the frame holes. Make sure the tubing is 1/2"-dia. CPVC, which is rated for hot water. This plastic tubing is usually available in 10' lengths. (Standard PVC tubing is not usually sold in small diameters that will fit the 5/8"-dia. holes you have drilled.)

2. Wash the grade stamps off the tubing with lacquer thinner. (Wear gloves and work in a well-ventilated area when using lacquer thinner.) Rinse the tubing with clean water.

3. Once the pipes are clean and dry, insert them into the holes on one of the back sides. Slide the remaining back side into place, positioning the plastic tubes into the holes.

4. Attach the rails to the back side by driving 3" deck screws through the pilot holes (photo D).

BUILD THE SEAT FRAME.

One important difference between the seat frame and the back frame is the positioning of the CPVC tubing. On the seat frame, one tube is inserted into the sides slightly out of line at the front to make the chair more comfortable for your legs.

1. Cut the seat sides (E), seat front (F), seat stop (D) and seat support (1) to length. Use the same methods as with the back frame to draw the centering line for the plastic tubing on the seat sides. Drill the tube holes into each seat side. Start the holes 2" from the front end of the seat sides.

2. Position a single tube hole on the seat frame 7/8" below the top edge and 1" from the front end of each seat side. This front tube provides a gradual downward seat profile for increased leg comfort.

3. To eliminate the sharp edges on the seat assembly, round the seat sides, seat support edges and seat front edges with a sander or router. Cut 1"-radius roundovers on the top front corners of the seat sides.

4. Use a combination square to mark a line across the width of the inside of the seat sides, 3 1/2" from the back edges. This is where the back face of the seat stop is positioned. Test-fit the pieces to make sure their positions are correct. Lay out and mark the position of the seat stop and seat front on each seat side.

5. Drill pilot holes to fasten one of the seat sides to the seat stop and seat front, as you did with the back assembly. Counterbore the holes. Connect the parts with moisture-resistant glue and deck screws.

COMPLETE THE SEAT FRAME.

1. Cut 14 pieces of 1/2''-dia. CPVC pipe. Each piece should be 20 1/2" long. Once again, clean the grade stamps off the tubes with lacquer thinner and rinse them with clean water. Let them dry and insert them into the holes on one seat side.

2. Carefully slide the remaining seat side into place and fasten the pieces with moisture resistant glue and deck screws.

3. Position the seat support (I) under the tubing in the center of the seat. Attach the seat support to the middle of the seat front and seat stop with moisture-resistant glue and 1 1/4" deck screws (photo E).

BUILD THE ARMS AND LEGS.

The arms and legs are all that remain for the patio chair assembly. When you make the radius cuts on the bottom edges of the front and back legs, make sure the cuts are exactly the same on each leg. Otherwise, the legs may be uneven and rock back and forth when you sit.

1. Cut the back support (A), front legs (B), rear legs (C) and arm rails (J) to length.

2. Use a jig saw to cut a full-radius roundover on the bottoms of the legs (photo F). Cut a 1"-radius roundover on the top front corners of the arms and the front legs.

3. To attach the front legs to the outsides of the arm rails, drill pilot holes in the front legs and counterbore the holes. Then, attach the parts at a 90° angle, using 2 1/2" deck screws. The legs should be flush with the front ends of the rails.

APPLY FINISHING TOUCHES.

1. For a refined look, apply glue to the bottoms of 3/8"-dia. cedar wood plugs, and insert the plugs into the screw counterbores. Sand the tops of the plugs until they are flush with the surrounding surface.

2. Wipe the chair with mineral spirits and finish the chair with a clear wood sealer.

Tip

When using a jig saw, it is tempting to speed up a cut by pushing the tool with too much force. When cutting curves or roundovers, this is likely to cause the saw blade to bend This often causes irregular cuts and bums, especially when working with cedar. You can achieve smoother curves and roundovers with multiple gentle passes with the saw, until the proper curve is achieved. Finish the job by sanding the curves smooth.