MAKE THE GARAGE LID PANEL.

1. Cut the garage lid (A) to size. (Use a straightedge cutting guide whenever cutting sheet goods.) Cut the lid stringers (B), lid-frame sides (C) and lid-frame ends (D) to length. On a flat work surface, arrange the frame ends and sides on edge to form the lid frame. Fasten the lid sides and lid ends together with glue. Drive 1 1/2" deck screws through the sides and into the ends of the lid-frame ends.

2. Position the lid stringers facedown in the frame, with one on each end and two spaced evenly in between. Attach the stringers and frame with glue and 1 1/2" deck screws (photo A).

3. Turn the frame over so the side where the stringers are flush with the top edges of the frame is facing up. Lay the garage lid on top of the frame assembly and test the fit—the edges of the lid should be flush with the edges of the frame.

4. Remove the garage lid and run a bead of glue on the top edges of the frame. Drill 1/8" pilot holes in the lid. Counterbore the holes 1/4" deep, using a counterbore bit. Reposition the lid on the frame assembly. Drive 1" deck screws through the lid and into the tops of the frame components.

Tip

Cedar siding panels, like most sheet goods, usually have a different actual thickness than the nominal thickness implies. For example, the project shown here uses 1/2" nominal siding, which has an actual thickness of 7/16".

BUILD THE GARAGE WALLS.

1. Cut the posts (E) and end plates (F) to length. Cut the end panels (H) to size. Assemble an end plate and two posts into an open-end frame on your work surface. Fasten the parts together with glue. Drive 1 1/2" deck screws through the end plate and into the ends of the posts (photo B).

2. Test the fit. Drill pilot holes in the end panel. Counterbore the holes. Attach an end panel to the frame with glue. Drive 1" deck screws through the panel and into the frame (photo C).

ASSEMBLE THE GARAGE PANELS.

1. Cut the back plate (G) to length. Cut the back panel (I) to size.

2. Stand one end-panel assembly up so it rests on the plate. Place a bead of glue along the edge of the post that will join the back panel. Position one end of the back panel flush against the post, making sure the rough side of the cedar siding is facing out. Attach the back panel to the end-panel assembly with 1 1/2" screws. Attach the other end-panel assembly to the other side of the back panel the same way (photo D).

3. Place a bead of glue along the outside face of the back plate. Position the plate at the bottom of the back panel, so the ends of the plate form butt joints with the end-panel assemblies. Secure by driving 1" deck screws through the back panel and into the back plate.

4. Fit the garage lid panel around the tops of the end and back panels, shifting the panels slightly to create a tight fit. Drill pilot holes in the lid frame. Counterbore the holes. Attach the lid panel with glue. Drive 2" deck screws through the lid frame and into the tops of the end and back panels and frame posts.

BUILD THE CABINET LID.

1. Cut the storage lid (J) to size. Cut the end stringers (Q), center stringer (W), front lid edge (U), rear lid edge (X) and storage lid ends (V) to length.

2. Lay the two storage lid ends and the front lid edge on edge on a flat surface. Position the storage lid ends so that they butt into the back face of the front lid edge. Fasten the ends and edge together with glue and 1 1/2" deck screws.

3. Lay the rear lid edge on its face between the end stringers, which are facedown, flush with the ends of the stringers. Mounting the rear lid edge in this way provides a flush fit at the rear of the storage unit assembly while maintaining an overhang on the sides and front. Fasten the rear lid edge and end stringers together with glue an 3" deck screws.

4. Fasten the storage-lid end/edge assembly to the end stringer/rear-lid edge assembly with glue and 3" deck screws to form a frame. Position the center stringer midway between the end stringers and attach with glue and 3" deck screws.

5. Turn the storage lid frame over so the side with the stringers flush with the tops of the frame faces up. Lay the storage lid panel on top of the frame so the edges are flush. Drill pilot holes in the lid and counterbore the holes. Attach the lid panel with glue and drive 1" deck screws through the panel and into the frame.

BUILD THE CABINET WALLS.

1. Cut the short posts (R) and side plates (S) to length. Cut the side panels (K) to size.

2. Attach a side plate to the bottom, inside edge of a side panel, so the plate is flush with the front edge of the panel (photo E). Attach the shortposts upright, flush with the ends of the side plates and the side panels, by driving 2 1/2" deck screws through each plate and into the end of the corresponding post. Drive a 1" deck screw through each side panel and into the corresponding post. Build the second cabinet side panel the same way.

MAKE THE CABINET DOOR FACE FRAME.

1. Cut the face panel (L) to size. On the inside of the panel, mark a cutout for the cabinet door opening. First, measure down from the top 4", and draw a line across the panel. Then, measure in from both sides 2" and draw straight lines across the panel. Finally, draw a line 2" up from the bottom. The layout lines should form an 18 1/2" × 23 1/4" rectangle.

2. Drill a 3/8"-dia. starter hole for a jig saw blade at one corner of the cutout area (photo F). Cut out the door opening with a jig saw. Sand the edges smooth. Save the cutout piece for use as the door panel (M).

ASSEMBLE THE CABINET.

1. Arrange the cabinet walls so they are 22 1/2" apart. Attach the face frame to a short post on each wall, using glue and 1" deck screws. Make sure the face frame is flush with the outside faces of the cabinet walls, and that the wide "rail" of the face frame is at the top of the cabinet, where there are no plates (photo G).

2. Cut the front plate (T) and fasten it to the bottom, inside edge of the face frame, butted against the short posts.

3. Place the cabinet lid assembly onto the cabinet walls and face frame. Attach the cabinet lid with glue. Drive 1" deck screws through the insides of the cabinet walls and into the frame of the lid (photo H).

MAKE AND INSTALL THE SHELVES.

1. Cut the shelves (P) to size. Lay out 1/4" × 1 1/2" notches in the back corners of the shelves so they fit around the cabinet posts that attach the cabinet to the garage wall. Cut out the notches in the shelves, using a jig saw.

2. On the inside of each cabinet wall, draw lines 8" down from the top and 11" up from the bottom to mark shelf locations. Fit the shelf notches around the back posts, then attach the shelves by driving 1 1/2" deck screws through the cabinet sides and into the edges of the shelves. Drive at least two screws into each shelf edge.

ATTACH THE CABINET TO THE GARAGE.

1. Push the cabinet flush against the left wall of the garage.

2. Fasten the cabinet to the garage by driving 3" deck screws through the garage posts and into the short posts of the cabinet. Three screws into each post will provide sufficient holding power.

BUILD AND ATTACH THE DOORS.

1. Cut the door rails (N) and stiles (0) to length. Using the cutout from the face frame panel for the door panel (M), fasten the rails and stiles to the door panel using glue and 1 1/2" deck screws. Leave a 3/4" overlap on all sides (photo I). Be sure to mount the rails between the stiles, but flush with the stile ends.

2. Attach door hinges 3" from the top and bottom of one door stile. Mount the door to the face frame. Install the door pull.

APPLY THE FINISHING TOUCHES.

Sand and smooth the edges of the grill garage and prepare it for the finish of your choice. Since it is constructed with cedar, you can chose a clear wood sealer that leaves the rich wood grain and color visible. If you prefer a painted finish, use a quality primer and durable exterior enamel paint.

Tip

The grill garage is designed as a handy storage center for your grill and such supplies as charcoal and cooking utensils. Do not store heavy items on top of the garage lid, and never light your grill while it is still in the grill garage. Do not store lighter fluid in the grill garage—always keep lighter fluid out of reach of children, in a cool, sheltered area, such as a basement.