Directions: Porch Swing

Index>Furnishings>Outdoor Wood Furnishings>Porch Swing>

MAKE THE SEAT SUPPORTS.

1. Cut the seat supports (C) to length. Lay out the contour on one of the seat supports. Use a flexible ruler, bent to follow the contour, to ensure a smooth cutting line.

2. Cut along the cutting line with a jig saw (photo A). Sand the contour and round the bottom front edge with a belt sander. Use the contoured seat support as a template to mark, cut and sand a matching contour on the other seat support.

Use a jig saw to cut the contours into the tops of the seat supports.

BUILD THE SEAT FRAME.

1. Cut the arm rails (D) and stretchers (E) to length. Attach one stretcher between the seat supports, 3/4" from the front edges and 1/2" from the bottom edges, using glue and 2 1/2" wood screws. Fasten the other stretcher between the supports so the front face of the stretcher is 6" from the backs of the supports, and all bottom edges are flush.

2. Use a 5/8" spade bit and drill guide holes for the ropes through the seat supports and the arm rails. Drill a hole 1 1/2" from the back end of each piece. Also drill a hole 4 1/2" from the front end of each piece. Use a right-angle drill guide to make sure holes stay centered all the way through (photo B).

Use a 5/8" spade bit and a right-angle drilling guide when drilling rope holes through the seat supports.

INSTALL THE SEAT SLATS.

1. Cut the seat slats (I) to length (use full-sized 1 × 2s, not 1 × 2 furring strips). Arrange the slats across the seat supports, using 1/2"-thick spacers to make sure the gaps are even. The front slat should overhang the front stretcher by about 1/4"

2. Fasten the slats to the seat support with glue and #8 × 2" wood screws (one screw at each slat end). Do not attach the back slat until after you install the back assembly. Smooth the top edges of the slats with a router and 1/4" roundover bit, or a power sander (photo C).

Smooth out the top exposed edges of the seat slats with a router and a 1/4" rounderover bit (or use a power sander).

BUILD THE BACK.

1. Cut the back cleat (F) and the back slats (H) to length.

2. Fasten the slats to the back cleat, leaving a 1 1/2" gap at each end, and spacing the slats at 1 3/8" intervals (photo D). The tops of the slats should be flush with the top of the cleat.

Use 1 × 2 spacers to align the back slats, then fasten the slats to the back cleat.

3. Cut the top rail (G) to length. Fasten it to the cleat so the front edge of the rail is flush with the fronts of the slats (photo E).

Fasten the top rail to the back cleat, so the front edge of the rail is flush with the fronts of the slats.

ATTACH THE UPRIGHTS AND ARM REST.

1. Cut the back uprights (A) and front uprights (B). Make a round profile cut at the tops of the back uprights, using a jig saw. Attach the uprights to the outside faces of the seat supports, flush with the ends of the supports, using glue and 2 1/2" screws.

2. Round the bottom front corners of the front uprights and bottom rear comers of the back uprights with a sander, so they are flush with the seat supports.

3. Use 2 1/2" screws to attach arm rails between the uprights, flush with the tops and with rope holes aligned.

4. Slide the back slat assembly behind the seat assembly (photo F).Attach the back cleat to the back uprights with 3" screws, so the upper rear corners of the cleat are flush with the back edges of the uprights, 3" down from the tops of the uprights. Make sure the back faces of the back slats are resting against the top front edge of the rear stretcher.

Slide the back assembly against the seat assembly and attach.

5. Attach the back seat slat to the seat supports, so its back edge is snug against the front faces of the back slats.

APPLY FINISHING TOUCHES.

Sand and paint swing. Thread 1/2"-dia. nylon rope through the rope holes, and knot the ends. Hang the swing with heavy screw eyes driven into ceiling joists or into a 2 × 4 lag-screwed across the ceiling joists.

 Directions: Porch Swing